A Summer Weekend on Kimitoön: Exploring Finland’s Archipelago Without a Car
The best summer trips often begin before you reach your destination.
For us, this year’s journey to Kimitoön started with a train ride, a yellow coach and the welcome realisation that nobody needed to drive.
My daughters and I first visited Kimitoön last summer and left feeling that there was still much more to discover. So when the opportunity arose to return at the beginning of the school holidays, we didn’t hesitate for long.
This time, however, we decided to travel differently.
Rather than driving from home, we took the train to Helsinki and continued by coach to the island. During the summer months, direct services operated by Vainion Liikenne make it possible to reach Kimitoön from the capital without a car, while bicycles can easily be hired on arrival.
For anyone accustomed to driving everywhere, it is a surprisingly liberating way to travel.
Instead of concentrating on traffic, I spent the journey reading, watching the landscape roll by and enjoying the rare luxury of doing absolutely nothing. The girls were equally content, armed with books, snacks and enough conversation to fill the entire journey.
By early evening we arrived in Dragsfjärd, a village surrounded by forest, sea and the distinctive calm that seems to characterise so much of the Finnish archipelago.
A Night at Hotel Merikruunu
The bright yellow building has stood here since the 1930s, but recent renovations have given it a new lease of life. Alongside the hotel, a collection of modern villas has created a small holiday village that feels both contemporary and unmistakably Nordic.
After checking in, we headed straight for dinner.
The restaurant focuses on straightforward, well-prepared food made with local ingredients. There is no unnecessary fuss; just generous portions, friendly service and flavours that suit the setting.
What stood out most was the atmosphere. Throughout the evening there was a genuine sense of hospitality that felt natural rather than rehearsed.
Later, we spent an hour moving between the sauna and the outdoor hot tub before calling it a night. Surrounded by woodland and early summer greenery, it was difficult to imagine a better introduction to the weekend.
Cycling to Söderlångvik Manor
The following morning began with breakfast before we collected our bicycles and set off towards Söderlångvik Manor, roughly seven kilometres away.
Cycling proved to be one of the highlights of the trip.
The route passes through quiet countryside, small villages and stretches of road where the surrounding landscape becomes part of the experience. Travelling at bicycle speed allows you to notice details that would otherwise disappear through a car window.
Söderlångvik was one of our favourite places during our previous visit, and returning only confirmed that impression.
There is something unexpectedly Mediterranean about the estate. The gardens, the architecture and the open views create an atmosphere that feels surprisingly far removed from the image many international visitors have of Finland.
We spent much of our time exploring the grounds and admiring Kim Simonsson’s remarkable Moss Giants. Set among the gardens, the sculptures are both playful and thought-provoking, encouraging visitors to slow down and look more closely.
A guided tour of the manor offered a fascinating glimpse into the life of Amos Anderson, whose influence can still be felt throughout the estate today.
Lunch at Amos Krog
Lunch was served at Amos Krog, the manor’s restaurant.
The menu changes with the seasons and draws heavily on local ingredients. Fresh salads, archipelago flavours and carefully prepared main courses reflected the region’s strong food culture.
The setting is equally memorable. Elegant without being formal, it feels like exactly the sort of place where a long lunch can easily stretch into an entire afternoon.
Sea Air and Spa Time in Kasnäs
From Söderlångvik we continued south to Kasnäs.
Located at the southern tip of Kimitoön, Kasnäs serves as a gateway to the outer archipelago and is one of the region’s most important harbour communities.
We spent the afternoon exactly as many holidaymakers hope to spend a summer afternoon: swimming, relaxing in the spa, walking along the shoreline and watching the sea.
There is a particular quality to the Finnish coast that is difficult to describe until you experience it yourself. The combination of open water, smooth granite rocks and endless horizons creates an atmosphere that feels both peaceful and expansive.
That evening we enjoyed dinner overlooking the harbour before settling into our room for a second night on the island.
Discovering Högsåra
On our final day we cycled to Svartnäs and boarded the ferry to Högsåra.
Although only around fifty people live on the island throughout the year, summer brings a steady flow of visitors arriving by boat, bicycle and ferry.
Högsåra immediately felt different from anywhere else we had visited during the weekend.
Small roads wind through lush landscapes, traditional houses sit tucked among the trees and the pace of life appears determinedly unhurried.
Farmors Café
One place had been recommended to us repeatedly before the trip: Farmors Café.
After visiting, it was easy to understand why.
Housed in a former pilot station, the café has become something of a local institution. Wood-fired pizzas, homemade cakes and generous lunches attract visitors from across the archipelago, yet the atmosphere remains relaxed and welcoming.
Our lunch stretched comfortably into the afternoon, followed by coffee and cake on the terrace.
If there was one place during the entire weekend that perfectly captured the spirit of the archipelago, it was probably this one.
Why Kimitoön?
What makes Kimitoön special is not any single attraction.
It is the combination of things.
Historic estates and contemporary art. Quiet cycling routes and busy guest harbours. Excellent food, coastal landscapes and small encounters with people who clearly care about the place where they live.
For visitors looking to experience a different side of Finland beyond Helsinki, Kimitoön offers an accessible introduction to life in the archipelago.
And as our coach pulled away towards Helsinki on Sunday afternoon, one thought kept returning: we had already started talking about our next visit.
This article was produced as part of an influencer collaboration with Elluyellow. The text is based on the original article published on Elluyellow’s blog and has been edited and condensed for publication in English. The original Finnish article can be read here: https://www.elluyellow.com/kemionsaari-kesa-2026/(opens in a new window, go to external website)